Professional Chef Training

Custards, Fillings and Creams

Custards, Fillings and Creams

The student will learn to produce choux paste and pate a choux creations, puddings and bavarians in a timely manner.  Products highlighted are eclairs, cream puffs, profiteroles, paris-brest, swans, croqembouche, gateau St. Honore, various Bavarians, puddings, mousses, soufflés, savarins and crepes.  Sugar Cookery is explored from simple syrup to caramel. Pulled sugar will be demonstrated in the classroom. The emphasis in this course is concept, procedure and technique of producing the above traditional desserts.

Text:       Professional Baking: Wayne Gisslen

Day

1          Classroom:     Introduction to course, introduction to cooked creams and infusion.

            Demo:              Pastry Cream, Creme Anglaise, Sabayon and Lemon Curd

Lab:                 Pastry cream, crème Anglaise sabayon and lemon curd

Homework:    

2                     Classroom:    Introduction to Bavarians and charlottes; lady fingers and roulade.

            Demo:              Lady fingers, Charlottes , Tira Mi Su

Lab:                 Charlotte Royal, Tira Mi Su.

Homework:    

3                     Classroom:    Continue crème anglaise-based desserts; review for exam.

Demo:                         Ice Cream, Frozen Soufflés, Granitas

Lab:                 Ice Cream, Frozen Mousse/Soufflés, Granitas.

Homework:    Study for exam.

4          Classroom:     Exam – cooked creams

Lab:                 Practical on cooked creams

Homework: 

5          Classroom:     Introduction to baked custards; introduction to sugar cookery.

            Demo:              Creme Caramel, Creme Brulee, Pots de Creme, Clafoutis

Lab:                 Crème caramel, crème brulee and pots de creme, clafoutis

Homework:     Sugar chart

6                     Classroom:     Introduction to steamed and baked puddings and baked charlottes.

            Demo:              Steamed Puddings

Lab:                 Steamed puddings, bread pudding and apple charlotte

Homework:     Study for exam.

7          Classroom:     Exam – baked custard

Lab:                 Practical on baked custards.

Homework:     Read pages 35, 36 and 423 of Friberg.

8          Classroom:     Introduction to pate a choux and related products

Lab:                 Pate a choux and related products: cream puffs, eclairs and swans.

Demo:              Pate a choux paste

Homework:     Read pages 337, 402 and 476.

9          Classroom:     Review caramel-related decorations and review for the exam

Lab:                 ST Honore and croquembouche

Demo:             Assembly of Pate a choux products

Homework:     Study for exam.

10         Classroom:     Exam – Pate a choux

Lab:                 Practical on Pate a choux

Homework:     Read pages 532-542 in Friberg.

11         Classroom:     Introduction to uncooked creams

            Demo:             Panna cotta, cheesecake and fruit mousse

Lab:                 Panna cotta, cheesecake and fruit mousse

Homework:     Read pages 560-577 in Friberg.

12                 Classroom:     Introduction to mousse and related products.

Demo:             Mousse Cake

Lab:                 Mousse cakes and piped mousse desserts.

Homework:     To be assigned.

13         Classroom:     Continue mousse-based desserts.

            Demo:              Three Mousse Terrine

Lab:                 Practical (25 points) – Three mousse terrine

Homework:     Read pages 577-583 of Friberg.

14         Classroom:     Introduction to soufflés and meringues.

            Demo:              Hot soufflés

Lab:                 Egg yolk-based soufflés and fruit-based soufflés.

Homework:     study for final exam

15         Classroom: Final exam

Lab: Final practical

16/17   (when applicable) – Content to be announced by instructor.

Note:  All work highlighted under classroom may be made up the next time the student appears in class; all work highlighted under lab (with the exception of the final practical) may not be made up.  All other work, including daily lab grades, may not be made up.

BK 113  –Course Learning and Skill objectives

At the end of the course, the successful student will be able to demonstrate proficiency in the following techniques:

1.       Produce pate a choux and related products.

2.       Produce caramel and appropriate fillings and garnishes.

3.       Produce and use poured fondant                                                                                                                 

4.       Pipe eclairs, cream puffs, profiteroles, swans, etc.

5.       Glaze and finish pate a choux creations, Bavarian desserts, mousse desserts, etc.

6.       Work in a clean and organized manner.

7.       Describe the procedures for producing:

- Bavarian

- puddings

- pastry cream

- crème anglaise

- pate a choux

- caramel

8.   Define:

       - crystallization (and ways to avoid it)

       - flan

       - crème caramel

       - crème brulee

       - crème anglaise

       - pot de crème

       - pate a choux

       - fondant

8.       Explain the physical leavening process for pate a choux.

9.       List proper fillings for all products studied in the course.

10. Explain why it is important to work in a clean and organized fashion.

BK 113 - Competencies

At the completion of this course, the successful student will be able to pass the following competencies.

Properly produce the following:

_____Sabayon

_____Crème Anglaise

_____Pastry Cream

_____Crème Brulee

_____Crème Caramel

_____Bread Pudding

_____Bavarian-based Charlotte

_____Hot and Cold Soufflé

_____Mousse

_____3 Pate a Choux Products

_____Ice Cream and Sorbet

_____Cheesecake

BK 113 - Evaluation Procedures and Grading Criteria

Baking 113 is assigned a total of 1,000 possible points to be achieved.  400 points are available in the lecture portion of the course and 600 points are available in the lab.

Lecture                                                                                                                                    

Three unit exams @ 75 points                                                                            225 points

Quizzes and assignments                                                                                    75 points

Final exam                                                                                                        100 points

                                                                                                subtotal:          400 points

Lab                                                                                                                                         

10 daily practical exams @ 20 points each                                                          200 points

1 practical at 25 points                                                                                       25 points

Three unit practicals @ 75 points                                                                        225 points

Final practical @ 150 points                                                                               150 points

                                                                                                subtotal:          600 points

                                                                                                Total             1,000 points

Grading standard

Grade                                                               Score                                                    GPA points

A                                                                     90-100%                                                  4.0

B+                                                                    87-89 %                                                   3.5

B                                                                      80-86 %                                                   3.0

C+                                                                    77-79 %                                                  2.5

C                                                                      70-76 %                                                  2.0

D+                                                                   67-69 %                                                  1.5

D                                                                     60-66 %                                                  1.0

F                                                                      0-59  %                                                              0

WF penalty withdrawal                                                                                                   0

W                                                                                                                                   N/A

I                                                                                                                                     N/A

BK 113 - Recipes

Pastry Cream

16 oz                milk

2 oz                  sugar

2                      egg yolks

2                      whole eggs

3 T                   cornstarch

2 oz                  sugar

1 oz                  butter

½ oz                 vanilla extract

Scald milk with first quantity of sugar (and vanilla.)  Combine egg, yolks with cornstarch & 2^nd quantity of sugar.  Temper hot milk into egg mixture; return to pan.  Over medium heat, bring to a boil, whisking constantly.  Remove from heat, stir in butter & salt Chill over ice water bath.

Crème Anglaise

6                      egg yolks

5 oz                  sugar

8 oz                  cream

8 oz                  milk

1 ½ t                 vanilla

Whip the yolks & half of the sugar to smooth.  Bring the milk & cream with the other half of the sugar to the boil. Temper the milk into the yolks and return to the heat. Heat mixture until nappe-consistency. Remove from heat; add vanilla. Place in a clean stainless container & refrigerate.

Sabayon

4 oz                  egg yolks

6 oz                  sugar

8 oz                  white wine

Variation: zabaglione- cut sugar in half and use marsala instead of wine

Lemon Curd

4 oz                  butter

4 oz                  lemon juice

7 oz                  granulated sugar

2 t                    lemon zest

4                      eggs

Bring butter, sugar, zest and lemon juice to a boil and cook temper in eggs.  Stir with a spatula until thickened.  Strain and cool over an ice bath.  Fill tart shells and decorate as desired.

Bavarian Cream

1 T                               powdered gelatin

6 oz                              cold water

5 oz                              egg yolks

5 oz                              sugar

20 oz                            milk

2 t                                vanilla extract

20 oz                            heavy cream

Soften the gelatin in the cold water.  Make the crème Anglaise.  Whip the cream.  Add the gelatin mixture to the hot crème Anglaise Chill over an ice bath until almost set.  Fold in the whipped cream and pour into prepared molds.

Fruit Bavarians

4 oz                              fruit puree

2 oz                              sugar to taste

½ oz                             lemon juice

½ T                              gelatin

2 ½ oz                          cold water

6 oz                              heavy cream

Push the puree through a chinois and add sugar and lemon juice.  Soften the gelatin in the cold water.  Dissolve the gelatin mixture over low heat.  Stir the gelatin mixture over low heat.  Chill the mixture until almost set.  Fold in the whipped cream; pour into prepared molds and set.

Jelly Roll

Makes ½ sheet pan

4 oz                              egg yolks

5 ½ oz                          sugar

1 ½ oz                          water

5 oz                              cake flour

6 oz                              egg whites

pinch                            salt

2 oz                              sugar

Separated egg method.

Bake at 325ºF convection for 7-10 minutes.

Ladyfingers

8 oz                              egg yolks

5 oz                              sugar

8 oz                              cake flour sifted

2 oz                              bread flour sifted

12 oz                            egg whites

5 oz                              sugar

Separated egg method.  Bake at 325ºF convection for 12-15 minutes.

Japonaise

8 oz                              egg whites

8 oz                              sugar

8 oz                              10X sugar

8 oz                              hazelnut flour or finely ground hazelnuts

Whip egg whites to soft peaks, gradually add granulated sugar and whip to stiff peaks.  Fold in sifted 10X sugar, then hazelnut flour.  Pipe 2 – 10” disks onto parchment and bake in a very low oven, 250*F, until crisp and only slightly browned, about 1 ½ hours.

Vanilla Ice Cream

16 oz                cream

16 oz                milk

1                      vanilla bean, split lengthwise

10                     yolks

10 oz                sugar

Heat the milk & cream with vanilla bean to scalding.  Beat the yolks & sugar until light and fluffy.  Pour half & half into the yolk mixture while whisking.  Heat over simmering water until thickens to nappe.  Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate, covered.  Completely chill.  Process in ice cream machine.

Raspberry Semifreddo

2 pts                             fresh raspberries, pureed

4                                  egg yolks

½ cup                           sugar

½ cup                           corn syrup

2 T                               champagne

3                                  egg whites, beaten

1 cup                            heavy cream

Puree the raspberries with the champagne and set aside.  Boil the sugar and the corn syrup to the softball stage.  Pour over the lightly mixed egg yolks.  Beat until cool.  Combine the raspberries with the yolk mixture and fold in the whipped cream.  Fold in the beaten egg whites.  Pour into a prepared mold.  Freeze overnight.

Chocolate SemiFreddo

5                                  eggs, separated

2/3 cup                         sugar

2 T                               rum

2 T                               cognac

¼ cup                           dry marsala

2/3 cup                         heavy cream, whipped

2 oz                              chocolate, chopped fine

Warm sugar and yolks over hot water and stir in liquors.  Whip until tripled in volume.  Whip whites and add 1 tablespoon of sugar.  Fold whipped cream into yolk mixture.  Fold in whites and chocolate.  Pour into mold and freeze.

Frozen Mousse/Soufflé

1.  Italian Meringue Based

8 oz                              sugar

2 oz                              water

2-3 oz                           liquor

4 oz                              egg whites

12 oz                            heavy cream, whipped to medium stiff peaks

2.  Fruit-puree based

1 c.                               simple syrup

1 c.                               fruit puree

2 c.                               heavy cream, whipped to medium stiff peaks

3.  Custard based

 2 c.                              crème anglaise

 2 c.                              heavy cream, whipped to medium stiff peaks

Sorbet

3 q                                fruit puree

2 q                                syrup

Syrup:

2 q                                water

2 lb 8 oz                        sugar

1 lb 8 oz                        glucose

Make syrup and add to the puree.  May need to adjust sweetness.  Mix puree and syrup together and chill.  Freeze according to manufacturer instructions.

Ricotta Gelato

5 oz                              cream

15 oz                            milk

16 oz                            ricotta

½ c                               sugar

1                                  cinnamon stick

2” strip                         lemon zest

2 T                               corn syrup

¼ t                               vanilla

Combine first 5 ingredients and bring to a boil.  Add zest, cover and let steep 10 minutes.  Force through a sieve.  Add corn syrup and vanilla, mix.  Freeze in machine.

Burgundy Granite

6 ½ oz                          sugar

1 c                                water

1                                  lime, juiced

1                                  orange, juiced

24 oz                            burgundy

Combine sugar, water, lime juice, orange juice and bring to a boil.  Let cool and add burgundy.  Pour into a shallow pan and freeze.  As it begins to freeze scrape with a fork to crystallize granite 

Crème Brulee

6                                  egg yolks

3 oz                              sugar

3 c.                               cream

pinch                            salt

flavoring

Bake at 300*F until firm in a water bath.

Crème Caramel

8 oz                              eggs

4 oz                              sugar

¼ T                              salt

12 oz                            milk

flavoring

Extra sugar to caramelize for bottom of dishes.  Bake at 300*F until firm in a water bath.

Ginger Crème Caramel

2 T                               chopped ginger root

1 pint                            milk

4 oz                              sugar

4                                  eggs

a few drops                   lemon juice

8 oz                              sugar for caramel

1 oz                              water

Bake at 300ºF convection until firm.

Pots de Creme

1 c.                               sugar, caramelized

3 c.                               milk

½ c.                              cream

Infusion of:       

1 t espresso powder

½ vanilla bean

4 oz                              bittersweet chocolate

2                                  eggs

6                                  egg yolks

Bake at 300ºF convection until firm.

Flan

2 qts.                            milk

1 c.                               sugar                           

6                                  eggs

6                                  egg yolks

1 T                               vanilla extract

1 cup sugar + 1/3 cup water (for caramelized sugar)

Combine and reduce the milk to 1 quart. Temper in the eggs and vanilla.  Bake at 300*F until firm in a water bath.

Clafoutis I

½ lb.                            dried fruit, soaked in liquor

3 T                               almond flour

4 T                               sugar

2                                  eggs

3 oz                              heavy cream

1 T                               liquor

1 oz                              melted butter

3 T                               liquor for top

1                                  8” partially blind-baked shell

Combine all ingredients together. Pour into shell and bake at 300*F until firm.

Clafoutis II

1 T                               all purpose flour

6 oz                              sugar

3                                  eggs

4 oz                              cream

6 oz                              milk, scalded

10 oz                            fruit

1                                  10” partially blind-baked shell

Combine all ingredients together. Pour into shell and bake at 300*F until firm.

Quiche Filling

1 c.                               Cream

1 c.                               Milk

4                                  eggs

Salt, pepper, nutmeg

Additional ingredients

Combine all ingredients together. Pour into shell and bake at 300*F until firm.

Baked Apple Charlotte

1 lb.                              apples, peeled, cored, cut in chunks

½ oz                             butter

½ T                              lemon zest

pinch                            cinnamon

1 oz                              apricot jam softened

1-2 oz                           sugar

Slices of brioche or other bread.

4 oz                              melted butter to dip in

Combine the apple chunks with the butter, lemon zest, and cinnamon in a sauté pan.  Cook until soft and are able to mash into a thick puree.  Stir in the apricot jam and add sugar to taste.  Line molds as directed and fill with apple puree and top with bread.  Bake at 350ºF convection for 30-40 minutes.  Cool for 20 minutes and unmold.

Commander’s Palace Bread Pudding

1 c.                               sugar

4 oz                              butter, softened

5                                  eggs, beaten

2 c.                               heavy cream, room temperature

pinch                            cinnamon

1 T                               vanilla

1 oz                              raisins

12 slices                        1” thick French bread

Cream the butter and sugar.  Add the eggs, raisins, flavorings and add the cream slowly so as not to curdle.  Pour over the bread and let soak for at least 10 minutes.  Take bread from custard carefully and place in the bottom of baking pan.  Pour custard over bread and bake in a water bath at 300ºF convection for 40-50 minutes covered with aluminum.  When the custard is done, it should still be soft, not hard.

Bourbon Sauce

½ c.                              cream

½ c.                              sugar

pinch                            cinnamon

½ T                              butter

1 T                               water

½ T                              cornstarch

1 T                               bourbon

Bring all ingredients to a boil except for water, cornstarch and bourbon.  Make a slurry and add to boiling liquid.  Return to boil and remove from heat.  Add the bourbon and let cool for service.

Bread Pudding Custard

8 oz                              eggs

4 oz                              sugar

¼ T                              salt

¼ oz                             vanilla extract

2 c.                               milk

cinnamon, nutmeg to taste

1 oz                              brandy or whiskey (optional)

½ lb                              bread

2 oz                              melted butter

Variation:  cabinet pudding- substitute 8 oz diced cake for bread; omit butter.

Bake at 300° convection oven in a water bath.

Chocolate Bread Pudding Custard

2/3 c.                            heavy cream

2 1/3 c.                                     milk, scalded

8 oz                              bittersweet chocolate

2 oz                              butter

3                                  eggs

2                                  egg yolks

¾ c.                              brown sugar

Steamed Chocolate Pudding

1 c.                               hazelnuts, toasted and ground

8 oz                              bittersweet chocolate; melted

5 oz                              butter

2 oz                              sugar

6                                  egg yolks

8                                                                     egg whites

1 oz                              sugar

Bake at 250°F convection oven; covered and tied, in bain marie until set.

Pate a Choux

12 oz                            milk

12 oz                            water

12 oz                            butter

3 oz                              sugar

½ oz                             salt

1 lb.                              bread flour

12                                 eggs (approx.)

Sift the flour onto a parchment.  Heat the water and or milk with the sugar, salt and butter.  Bring to the boil and remove from the heat.  Add the flour quickly and stir until it becomes one ball.  Return to the heat to evaporate some of the water.  Transfer the mixture to the mixer and beat on slow with a paddle.  Add the eggs one at a time just until incorporated.  You may not need all the eggs.  The paste should be firm to pipe but smooth and shiny.  Bake at 400ºF to start and lower to 350ºF when bottoms brown, double sheet pan.

Panna Cotta

2 c.                               heavy cream, scalded

4 oz                              powdered sugar

½                                 vanilla bean

peel of 1 orange

5 sheets                        gelatin, softened and melted in above

3 oz                              rum

Chill until firm.

White Chocolate Cheesecake

16 oz                            cream cheese

3 oz                              granulated sugar

2                                  eggs

3 oz                              white chocolate, melted

1 T                               vanilla extract

Bake at 250* F convection oven; water bath; double recipe to make 1 10”

Spicy Blue Cheesecake

2 c                    Japanese bread crumbs

1 c                    walnuts

3 oz                  melted butter

2 lb                   Blue cheese

1 lb                   cream cheese

8                                  eggs, beaten

6 oz                  milk

12 drops            hot pepper sauce

Mix crumbs, walnuts and melted butter together to make a crust.  Cream blue cheese and cream cheese together. Slowly add eggs and mix.  Scrape bowl.  Slowly add milk and hot sauce and mix

Bake in a water bath at 325 F for 45 minutes.

Roasted Red Pepper Cheesecake

1/3 c                 breadcumbs

1/4 c                 Parmesan

1                                             onion diced

2 cloves            garlic minced

2 lb                   cream cheese

1/4 c                 bread flour

5                      eggs

3                      yolks

3 oz                  heavy cream

12 oz                cheddar cheese

1 lb                   roasted red peppers, sliced and chopped

Bake in water bath at 300*F until firm.

New York Cheesecake

1 ½ lb               cream cheese

5 oz                  sugar

2 1/2 oz             sour cream

1 oz                  cornstarch

1 T                   lemon juice

1oz                   vanilla

3                                  eggs

20 oz                heavy cream

Cream all ingredients together and bake at 300*F until firm.

Fruit Mousses

4 oz                              fruit puree

2 oz                              sugar to taste

½ oz                             lemon juice

1 T                               gelatin

2 ½ oz                          cold water

6 oz                              heavy cream

Push the puree through a chinois and add sugar and lemon juice. Soften the gelatin in the cold water.  Dissolve the gelatin mixture over low heat.  Stir the gelatin mixture into the fruit puree.  Chill the mixture until almost set.  Fold in the whipped cream.  Pour into prepared molds.

Amaretto Mousse

24 oz                            bittersweet chocolate

12 oz                            amaretto

2 c.                               heavy cream, whipped to medium peaks

Lemon Mousse

½ c.                              fresh lemon juice

zest of 4 lemons

10                                 egg yolks

1 c.                               sugar

6 sheets                        gelatin, softened and melted

1 ½ c.                           heavy cream , whipped to medium peaks

10                                 egg whites

½ c.                              sugar

Chocolate Mousse Truffle Cake

Needs two chocolate emulsified cakes, each layer gets cut into 3 layers and trimmed to fit rings

Raspberry Syrup

1 c                    simple syrup

1/2 c                 raspberry preserves

water to thin

Chocolate Mousse

1 ½ lb               bittersweet chocolate, chopped

10 oz                hot water

8                                             sheets gelatin

1 oz                  raspberry jam

12 oz                egg whites whipped

4 oz                  sugar

1q                     whipped cream, not sweetened

After the chocolate is melted, place the gelatin in the hot water to dissolve.  Pour the water into the chocolate, whisking.  Add the preserves.  Rewarm the chocolate mix if needed.  Add the whipped cream to the meringue and then that mix into the chocolate mix.  Use your hands and make sure to get all the chocolate or it will be lumpy.  Buttercream rosettes for each slice and shaved chocolate for the sides   

Triple Chocolate Terrine

Chocolate cake:

12                                 egg yolks

3 oz                              sugar

12                                 whites

5 oz                              sugar

12 oz                            semisweet chocolate, melted

Whip yolks and sugar to max volume.  Whip whites and sugar to soft peak.  Add melted chocolate to yolk mixture.  Fold whites in, a third at a time.  Pour into parchment-lined half sheet pan, spread evenly and bake at 325 about 15 minutes.

Mousse base:

10                                 yolks

6 oz                              sugar

2                                  eggs

2 ½ cups                       heavy cream

Whip cream to soft peaks and reserve

Whip yolks, sugar, and whole eggs over double boiler until 110*F.  Remove from heat and whip on mixer on high speed until cool.  Carefully fold whipped cream into egg mixture.  Divide into three portions and flavor each as follows

White chocolate filling:

10 oz                            melted white chocolate

1/3                                mousse base

2 sheets or 2 t               gelatin

Bloom gelatin in cold water.  Fold chocolate into base.  Warm gelatin over water bath until 110*F; quickly whip into chocolate mixture.

Dark chocolate filling:

10 oz                            melted chocolate

1/3                                mousse base

2 sheets                                    gelatin

Follow instructions for white chocolate filling above.

Orange chocolate filling:

5 oz                              white chocolate, melted

5 oz                              dark chocolate, melted

1/3                                mousse base

3 oz                              orange concentrate

2 sheet                          gelatin

Bloom gelatin in cold water.  Fold orange juice into mousse base.  Fold chocolates into mousse base.  Heat gelatin over double boiler to 110 degrees, quickly whip into chocolate mixture

Assembly:

Line the bottom and two long sides of two loaf pans with plastic wrap.  Cut the chocolate cake into eight pieces the size of the bottom of the pans.  Place on piece in the bottom of each pan.

Add the orange chocolate filling.  Place a second sheet of cake on top.  Add the white chocolate filling, place another cake layer on top.  Add the dark chocolate filling, top with the remaining cake sheets.  Place in the freezer to harden.

Souffle Glace

4 oz                  egg yolks

2                      eggs

5 ½ oz              sugar

1/3 oz               liquor

1 oz                  flavor

12 ½ oz             cream

Combine yolks, eggs and sugar and heat until 110*F.  Whip until cool; add liquor and flavor. Whip cream to soft peaks and fold in, place in molds.

Tulip Cookies

8 oz                              butter

8 oz                              powdered sugar

1 c.                               egg whites

1 T                               vanilla

8 oz                              cake flour, sifted

Creaming Method.

Florentinas

7 oz                              butter

6 oz                              sugar

2 oz                              corn syrup

¼ cup                           heavy cream

Bring to a boil and add

7 oz                              sliced almonds

2 oz                              rolled oats

Cook for another 2-3 minutes.

Bake cookies 6 to a full sheet pan on a silpat or parchment.

Crepe Batter

6 oz                              cake flour

6 oz                              bread flour

3 oz                              sugar

2 t                                salt

6                                  eggs

6                                  egg yolks

6 oz                              melted butter

3 c                                warm milk

1/3 c                             brandy

Mix all ingredients and rest for at least 30 minutes. 

Sugar Chart

Common Problems with Eclairs and Cream Puffs

In resolving problems with eclairs and cream puffs, pay special attention to formula balance, type of flour, cooking of the paste, type of eggs and their addition to the mix, use of other liquids to soften the batter, and the added leavening required.  Your skill in bagging out the various shapes and forms in a uniform manner is equally important to obtaining a uniform product.

Shells Lack Volume

Flour:  The flour should be of moderate strength (12-13% protein) in order to absorb and maintain the liquid and provide sufficient structure.

Cooking of the paste:  The fat cooked with the water should be completely dissolved and the water boiling before the flour is added.

Mixing of the cooked paste:    The flour should be sufficiently strong.  It must be added in a steady stream and stirred quickly and constantly.  If added too rapidly, the flour and the water will form lumps, producing and uneven paste.  If the fat is not fully dissolved and the flour not properly mixed in, the fat will separate and the mix will curdle.  This cannot be rectified by adding the eggs.

Addition of the eggs:   The paste should be cooled before adding the eggs.  Eggs are added gradually, and each addition should be fully absorbed and distributed before the next is added.  If all eggs are added at once or too rapidly there will be a separation or curdling effect.  If frozen eggs are added, a quick defrosting will take place with a release of water that will curdle the batter.  The addition of uncooked flour will prevent the hollow internal structure desired.  Coagulation or partial cooking of the first eggs will restrict expansion since the eggs have been precooked before baking.

Addition of milk and leavening: If milk is added to thin the paste, it should be added gradually and the batter checked to avoid excess thinning of the mix.  A thin mix will restrict volume.  To leaven the milk or water added to the mix, baking powder, ammonium bicarbonate, or a combination of both are added.  Ammonium bicarbonate is often used since it is a rapid-acting leavening agent.  This is important  Baking powder may be used since it does not have an effect on the internal color of the cream puff.  Ammonium bicarbonate, if used in excess or if bagging out of the batter is delayed, may cause a greenish tinge in the baked interior.  Poor volume or restricted expansion may result if the bagged out units are allowed to stand unbaked for a lengthy period.  This causes a crust to form which will restrict expansion during baking, and the leavening agents will react with the moisture in the paste and lose part of their gassing power.  Bakers often brush or pat the tops of the units with egg-wash or milk before baking to provide additional surface moisture and prevent too rapid formation of the crust.  It is customary to bake the shells on parchment-paper-lined pans to maintain bottom shape.  Pans that are greased or oily will allow the batter to spread and thus reduce height.

Units are baked in a medium-hot oven (420ºF to 425ºF) until full expansion is achieved and crust color has begun.  The oven temperature is then moderated to about 360ºF to complete baking and drying of the internal structure of the shell.  Loss of volume is often due to a very quick bake, after which a shrinking or collapse of the shell occurs.  A cool oven temperature may not provide for the required rapid expansion of the eggs and the release of steam in the form of evaporating moisture.  The result is a flat shell with reduced volume.  Rapid cooling of the shells after baking tends to cause shrinkage.  All of these factors should be checked carefully to determine the cause or causes of reduced volume.  It is quite common for bakers to inject a small amount of moist steam into the oven during the first stages of baking the cream puffs.  The short period of steam restricts rapid formation of the crust and allows for maximum expansion of the eggs and the leavening effects of the escaping steam and the gas released by the leavening agent.  Excessive steam will cause shrinkage because of moisture absorption.  The practice of injecting steam is recommended, but not mandatory.

Shells Have Uneven Size and Shape

An improperly prepared batter will be uneven in composition.  Lumps and concentrations of eggs and fats will result in uneven baking and shape.  Poor distribution of the leavening may be another factor that contributes to uneven size and shape.  For example, ammonium bicarbonate should be dissolved thoroughly in the milk or water and added in a fully dissolved state.  Partially dissolved leavening will not be distributed evenly.  Uneven bagging out or dropping out will result in uneven size and shape.  Care in the selection of the proper tube is important.  A small tube used for large units will produce uneven size and shape.  Careful spacing of the units being bagged is important.  Units expand considerably during baking and sufficient space should be provided so that they do not bake into each other, which will make for uneven bake, a measure of softness, loss of shape, and uneven size.  Proper baking temperature is essential:  Too hot or too cool an oven will have an impact on volume.  If oven heat is uneven, you may need to shift pans during baking.

Shells Shrink After Baking

The most important factor to consider in this instance is the manner in which the shells are baked.  Baking at a high temperature will cause excessive cracking as well as a dark crust.  Removal from the oven before the interior structure is fully set and dry will result in shrinkage or even collapse.  Baking at a low temperature causes loss of excess moisture and drying, which in turn causes shrinkage during baking and further shrinkage afterward, since the product tends to absorb moisture during cooling or storage.  An excess of chemical leavening will result in too much gas release and expansion to the degree that the structure may collapse, with shrinkage taking place during and after baking.  Improper storage of the baked shells may lead to absorption of moisture, which often causes shrinkage.  This may also occur during the filling of the shells.  If a hot filling is used, the moisture released while the filling cools internally will be absorbed and the shells will shrink.  Improperly cooked and mixed batters, and those made with a soft or weak flour, may be conducive to shrinkage after baking.  Very thin batters and those with reduced amounts of eggs will not have sufficient structure strength to retain the shape of the shell, and shrinkage will take place.  Finally, shells that have been stored for long periods will lose some of their moisture; and drying causes shrinkage.  It is best to store shells in a refrigerator and have them well covered to avoid loss of volume and prevent absorption of foreign odors.

Shells Develop Large, Uneven Breaks During Baking

This is most typical where the crust cannot withstand the rapid expansion of the eggs and leavening during the early stages of baking.  The resistance may come in several forms.  If the flour is very strong, its full expansion rate is not as rapid as the rate of egg expansion, the release of gas by the leavening agents, and the evaporation of moisture in the form of steam.  This causes wild or large, uneven cracks to form.  Batters that are too stiff or lacking in moisture will react in the same manner.  This problem occurs when measured amounts of eggs are added while the mix or paste is still hot.  The eggs congeal or cook, and little thinning takes place.  In fact, coagulated lumps often form.  Thus, the normal amount of eggs does not provide the required consistency in the batter.  Crust formation on the surface of shells after they are bagged out, or a similar crust formation on a batter that remains exposed for a long period, will cause uneven cracks during baking.  The crusted area will not spread evenly during baking and cracks will form at the point of separation of the crust.  Chemical leavening, especially ammonium bicarbonate, which acts rapidly, should be evenly distributed.  As previously mentioned, the ammonium bicarbonate should be completely dissolved in the milk or water before adding.  The paste should be cooked so that it is smooth and without the lumps usually caused by improperly cooked flour.  Baking the shells at a very high temperature will cause a rapid crust formation that is thicker than the normal thin crust capable of expanding during the early expansion of the shells.  A thicker or firmer crust resists expansion and cracks under the pressure of the expansion caused by the eggs, leavening, and moisture release.

Bottom Crusts of Shells Curve Inward and Are Hollow

This condition is most often caused by improper baking.  A very hot oven will cause rapid crust formation, and this tends to make the bottom crust of the shell pull upward and inward.  After baking there is a hollow effect.  The same may also occur when the oven temperature is too low.  The excess moisture removed during baking often causes shrinkage to take the form of a hollow effect.  Uneven oven heat, especially with a strong bottom heat, may cause the bottom of the shell to crust rapidly and force it into the hollow-bottom condition.  If pans are greased, the units do not adhere and tend to rise away from the pans during baking.  This will create a hollow effect and is why units are bagged out or deposited on paper-lined sheet pans or special pans that require little or no grease.

Shells Stick to the Pans and Tear When Removed

When the shell bottoms stick to the pan, it is usually because the pans are not completely clean and free of foreign matter.  This foreign matter acts as an adhesive.  For example, grains of sugar or filling will spread and burn.  Shells on this matter will stick to the pan.  Pans that are untreated or old and have an open porous surface will often cause the shells to stick.  For this reason bakers usually bag out the mix on parchment-paper-lined pans.  Sticking may occur with egg-wash or milk is brushed on the shells before baking.   Carelessly applied egg-wash will drip to the surface of the pan or paper, and this will cause sticking.

Shell Crusts Are Too Thick or Too Thin

Shells that are made from a batter that has been thinned with a considerable amount of milk will usually bake with a very thin crust.  This is caused by excessive spread during baking, which allows the crust to become thin and delicate.  This thinness makes handling of the shell for filling and finishing very difficult.  Baking in a very hot oven will cause rapid formation of the shell and a thickening of the shell during baking.  A strong bottom heat tends to have a similar effect on the bottom crust of the shell.  Too much leavening will cause greater expansion of the crust in a thin batter, and a further thinning of the crust will take place.  Excessive amounts of steam in the early stages of baking will tend to keep the crust formation moist, and a more-than-required expansion and thinning of the crust will take place.  If steam is used at all in baking, it should be very light and moist and used for a short period in the early stages of baking.

Bottom Crust of Shells Are Moist or Soggy After Being Filled

A common cause of this problem is the careless removal of shells from the pans.  Shells that stick slightly are often removed by hitting the pan on the table to jar the shells loose.  This causes the shells to release by tearing the bottom loose.  It follows that shells with torn or cracked bottoms will release the filling and become soggy.  If shells stick to the pan, remove them by warming the pan slightly and then sliding a flexible spatula under the shells to release them.  Even this may cause a thin portion of the shell to remain on the pan.  Shells that are not completely baked are moist in the interior.  When the filling is added, the combined moisture of the shell and filling results in a moist or soggy bottom.  Both soft and moist fillings may have this effect.  For example, custards that are thin release moisture; fruits used in conjunction with custard or whipped cream may also release moisture and cause sogginess at the bottom.  The whipped cream or topping may not be properly prepared and releases moisture as the cream separates or weeps.  Hot custard or fillings release moisture while cooling, producing soggy shell bottoms.  Units that are stored for long periods eventually absorb moisture from the filling, and sogginess occurs.  When finished units are stored under moist conditions, fondant and similar flat-type icings tend to run because of moisture absorption.  The syrupy liquid settles to the bottom, and sogginess and discoloration result.

Icings and Toppings Run

Flat-type icings – such as simple icing or fondant – that are thin usually contain too much water or syrup.  The moisture is released and runs when the products are displayed.  It is advisable to use a stabilizer for icings.  Another important cause of this condition is not warming icings enough before application.  icings that have been warmed and are still thick or heavy should be thinned with a simple syrup.  Some bakers add a small amount of dissolved gelatin to maintain the drying effect.  Stabilizers in prepared icings or icing bases will provide the necessary drying qualities.  Finished products that are refrigerated are in a moist environment.  This is conductive to the release of moisture, which often occurs when the icing contains a fat base.  Droplets of water or moisture accumulate on the surface and the icing starts to run.  Icing dryers or stabilizers can be used to control this condition.  A variety of such products is available, but use care in selecting them.  Whipped creams and overwhipped toppings will release some of their liquid.  Underwhipping may have the same effect.  Moisture release may also occur when marshmallow-type icings are used.  A whipped topping usually contains stabilizers that restrain the release of moisture.  A combination of equal parts of whipped cream and whipped topping is often used.  Where only whipping cream is used, a stabilizer should be incorporated when additional milk is added to the whipping cream.  This will contain the moisture.

Units Have Poor Taste and Flavor

The quality of the ingredients used to make the shells will affect taste and flavor.  For example, a rancid or off-flavor fat or oil used in cooking will impart a poor flavor.  The quality of the eggs used to prepare the final paste is important.  Old eggs or eggs that have taken on an odor will transmit that odor.  Proper bake of the shells has a decided impact.  Shells that are overbaked or baked in a hot oven will have a slightly burned taste.  Storage of shells for later finishing can also affect the taste and flavor.  They readily absorb the odors of other ingredients since they are so porous in crust formation and structure.  Once absorbed, odors and flavors remain.  The fillings and toppings used to finish eclairs and cream puffs have an obvious effect on the finished product.  Burned, scorched, or soured custards or other fillings of poor quality and whipped cream and toppings that have turned or are about to turn will affect taste and flavor.  Excessive amounts of icings and sugar will impart too much sweetness.  Pans on which the shells are baked may not be clean; the particles that remain burn and adhere to the shells.  Proper storage is essential to maintain freshness.

Overview of Production and Preservation of Eclairs and Cream Puffs

Paste Mixing

The first part of the cream puff mix is a cooked and emulsified blend of water, fat, slat, and flour.  The second part is composed of eggs. Water, or milk with a leavening agent.  While the recipe is simple, the procedure must be followed carefully to insure good results.  Carelessness will lead to poor products.  For example, at the start, water, fat, and salt are brought to a rolling boil.  At this point, the fat is completely dispersed in the boiling liquid.  If the fat remains in small lumps or is in a film on top of the water, the emulsion formed when the flour is added is not complete and the mix tends to separate.  Many bakers prefer to use oil instead of fat because a liquid is easily dispersed.  Continued boiling to dissolve hard fat will cause evaporation of some of the water and the mix will be stiffer after the flour is added.

The sifted flour is added in a quick, steady stream and stirred well until the flour is completely absorbed and gelatinized.  At this point, the mix is smooth and pulls away from the sides of the kettle.  The mix is then placed in a mixing machine and cooled to about 140ºF, before the paste is further emulsified by the addition of eggs.  The eggs are added slowly and each addition is absorbed fully before the next addition is made.  Water or milk and leavening may also be added if the eggs are not enough to soften the paste to the desired consistency.  They are added last and the paste is mixed until smooth.

Although the egg supply most of the moisture and leavening after the paste has been prepared or cooked, milk or water is often used to soften the mix further.  Milk provides additional crust color because it contains milk sugar.  It will also make a smooth crust in the baked shell.  The shell will also be thinner if milk is used.

When milk or water is added, additional leavening must be used in order to obtain full volume.  A fast-acting leavening must be used so that the liberation of carbon dioxide takes place rapidly before the crust of the shell is completely formed and dried by the heat of the oven.  Ammonium bicarbonate acts rapidly and consequently is the leavening usually used.  It should be dissolved in part of the water or milk and added to the mix in the last stage of mixing.  A greenish tinge on the inside of the shell – a common fault – is caused by the excessive use of ammonium bicarbonate.  This is due to its reaction with the eggs and the steam released during baking.  A combination of ammonium bicarbonate and baking powder in equal parts is recommended.  Use approximately ½ oz of this leavening blend for each pound of water or milk added to the mix.  When the mix is softened by using eggs only (without water or milk), no chemical leavening is needed.

The actual leavening or raising of the shells takes place in this sequence:  the heat of the oven penetrates the units bagged out on the pans, the eggs in the mix naturally start to expand, the chemical leavening releases gas, part of the moisture in the mix is formed into steam and rises, and the combination of all these actions causes expansion of the shell.

The eggs supply proteins; along with the flour that has been precooked and contains a strong gluten content, they form the expanding structure and hold the gas to produce leavening.  The expansion continues until the gas and moisture evaporation is controlled by the “set’ of the baked shell.  The cracks in the shell crust and the thickness of the crust depend upon the amount and rate of leavening.  Additional moisture in the form of milk or water will make a thinner shell since the extra moisture prevents the shell from drying and setting too quickly.  A thick paste will result in small volume and a thicker shell.  This produces many strands of gluten and protein inside the shell and makes the filling and handling of the shells more difficult.

Prepared mixes may be used which do provide for good products.  However, these are expensive and also require care in preparation.

Makeup and Baking

Bag out the mix as soon as it is ready.  Crust formation sets in quickly if the mix is permitted to stand for some time.  If this happens, the crust mix will cause excessive cracking in baking.  To correct this condition, stir the mix lightly with some eggs, water, or milk to remove the crust.

Bag out the units on clean pans (without grease) or on parchment-paper-lined pans.  The use of parchment paper eliminates the problem of sticking after baking and tearing upon removal.  Grease on the pans will cause the units to spread and bake flat.  Before baking, slightly flatten the points on top of the cream puff units.  Do this by dipping the fingers into eggs or milk and patting the points gently.  This makes a smoother shell after baking and prevents crust formation before baking.  It also provides a shine or luster on the tops of the shells.

The shells should be baked at 425ºF to 430ºF until crisp.  In addition to having a light, golden color the shells should feel “crackly” or almost brittle before being removed from the oven.  Shells that are removed too soon will shrink and flatten, because the shell structure has not been firmed or set sufficiently and the trapped steam or moisture causes shrinkage and collapse.  Overbaking due to cool oven temperature and the lack of a desirable crust color will also cause shrinkage because of excessive evaporation.  The shells will be very brittle and will crack and fall apart during filling or finishing.

Storage and Preservation

Baked shells, if not used the same day, should be covered and stored in the refrigerator.  Exposed shells dry quickly and become hard to use.  Shells should not be exposed to the high humidity of a refrigerator without being covered, since the moisture they absorb will cause dampness and shrinkage.  Covering the shells will also protect them from foreign odors.  The fillings used (custard and cream) are so bland they must be free from odors absorbed in the refrigerator.

Cream puffs and eclairs must be made from pure ingredients under sanitary conditions.  Be sure to refrigerate custard and cream-filled shells as soon as they are finished.  Their bacteria, and perhaps the coliform count, increase rapidly at room temperature.  The shells should not be filled with custard or cream when they are warm – this will not only cause souring and curdling but will be dangerous to the consumer!  By the same toke, warm custard should not be placed into chilled shells.  This will cause sogginess of the shell.

Finishing

The finish of the shells with icing is important.  An even smooth finish is desirable.  Very often, the tops of éclair shells are rough and uneven.  It is advisable to ice the smooth bottoms of these shells.  When dry, the bottoms are cut off, the shells filled with cream, and the smoothly iced “tops” replaced.  The fondant or flat icing used for finishing should be slightly thicker than usual in order to cover large cracks in the shells of cream puffs.  A thin icing will leave cracks exposed and the icing will have an uneven appearance.

Egg Notes

An egg is like a jack-of-all-trades, valuable to everyone because it is so versatile in the kitchen.

From the outside, it is a tidy, pre-measured little sphere.  So easy to remove from its package.  We know even before cracking the shell that a large egg is always at least two oz – or almost four tablespoons (60 ml) – or good food value at a reasonable cost.

Eggs also have a surprising number of roles in cooking.

As egg whites are 88 percent water, and yolks nearly 50 percent, the supply part of the liquid for batters and doughs.  This water helps moisten the dry ingredients.  It is absorbed by the starch granules in flour as they swell to form the framework of a cake or a muffin.  Any surplus liquid is usually converted to steam.  It becomes a major source of leavening as cream puffs and popovers hollow.  But steam also contributes in some ways to the lifting of most batters and doughs.

When eggs are uncooked, their proteins stretch.  They unwind around air during beating, so egg whites fill with air bubbles – up to eight times their original volume.  Whites holding air have the power to lift angel cakes, sponge cakes, meringues and soufflés.  Even in batters with baking powder, beaten eggs are often an added source of leavening.

The elasticity of eggs’ proteins is lost during cooking.  As proteins firm, however, eggs act as both thickening agents and binders.  The proteins in the whites begin thickening at about 140ºF (60ºC), and those in the yolk at about 149ºF (65ºC).

If you compare the low temperatures at which eggs begin cooking with the boiling point of water at 212ºF (100ºC), it makes sense to watch an egg and milk mixture carefully as it thickens to a stirred custard, soft pie filling or a cooked salad dressing.  Even when eggs supplement the thickening power of flour or cornstarch, they are cooked gently.

In baked custards and quiche, eggs gel undisturbed.  Gelling is also a form of thickening.  When there’s stirring and no pie crust, eggs are exposed to the direct heat.  So, we insulate a baking custard in the pan of warm water to stop the eggs from curdling.

As their proteins coagulate, eggs also bind ingredients together.  Meat loaves are less likely to crumble, and casseroles serve in tidier portions.  A crumb coating holds more tightly to a veal cutlet dipped in an egg before being rolled in breadcrumbs.

The lecithin of egg yolks performs an entirely different role as a fine emulsifier.  The yolk coats tiny droplets of fat so they stay suspended throughout mayonnaise, hollandaise and other salad dressings.  Without eggs, these special sauces would not be as luxurious, or as smooth.

Eggs, not the lemon, also add the rich yellow color to a lemon pie filling.  They subtly contribute background richness to muffins, waffles, and cakes.

It seems we give far too little credit to the special qualities of eggs.  Granted, they are not splashy like a frilly head of lettuce.  Nor do they announce their presence with a searing burn like a hot pepper.  But, the humble little egg is surely handy in the kitchen!

Baking Powder and Baking Soda: What is the Difference?

Recipes often call for baking powder and/or baking soda, but we are seldom told how they work. 

Baking soda needs an acid.

The important thing to know about baking soda (an alkali) is that it reacts best when combined with an acid.  Recipes using baking soda should always include an acidic ingredient like buttermilk, sour milk, yogurt, tart fruits or their juices.  A few acids might surprise you.

Also on the list are honey, bananas and cocoa (although not “Dutched” cocoa which is treated to reduce its acidity).  When moistened, baking soda and acid react to produce large volumes of carbon dioxide (CO2), which travel through batters and doughs, filling tiny air pockets and pushing up baking in an action known as “leavening”.

There’s baking soda in baking powder.

Baking powder contains both baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and a dry salt that dissolves to form an acid when liquids are added.  Cream of tartar, a tartrate salt used in the first baking powders, has been replaced largely by phosphate salts.  These react more slowly, giving extra time to get baking into the oven before much of the leavening takes place.

Baking powder contains cornstarch or calcium carbonate.

These inert fillers keep baking soda and the acid constituent from reaching during storage.  Fillers also standardize brands of baking powder so they release the same amount of carbon dioxide.

What is double-acting baking powder?

Double-acting baking powder usually combines two acid salts.  A phosphate salt reacts as soon as it’s mixed with liquid.  The second, often a sulfate salt, reacts when heated, creating another surge of leavening in the oven.  This makes double-acting baking powder particularly useful for doughs that must stand or chill before baking.  Because double-acting baking powders often produce a slightly alkaline dough, you may notice an aftertaste and find products have a coarser grain than those made with phosphate baking powders.

Can phosphate baking powder be substituted for double-acting baking powder?

Yes, it can be substituted in equal quantities.

Why do some recipes call for both baking powder and baking soda?

Often, the quantity of baking soda needed to balance the acid ingredient is not sufficient to leaven the entire amount of flour in the recipe.  Baking powder adds extra leavening so the dough rises sufficiently.

Storage.

Since baking powder reacts with moisture, it’s important not to expose it to humidity.  That’s why it’s most often sold in moisture-proof container.  Baking powder tends to lose its “oomph” when kept longer than a year.  Baking soda can be kept in its box and will last indefinitely since it requires an acid to react fully.  It’s best to protect it from humidity too.

Doughs need different leaveners.

Yeast doughs are strong and elastic so they expand with carbon dioxide as it is released slowly from yeast during long fermentation periods.  Baking soda and baking powder react quickly so are used to leaven weaker, lighter batters and doughs, such as muffins, cakes and cookies.

BK 113 - Recipes

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Copyright © 2003 Ronin Consulting
Last modified: December 05, 2009